Wetsuits FW15/16 trend report
Even the harshest of European winters aren’t enough to put surfers off the swells that are set to come rolling in this season. Surfing in cold water – Cold Water Surfing – has never been so popular or accessible. The black gold still seems to have some good years left in it and nothing seems to be phasing the enthusiasm of consumers who are allocating more and more budget to their winter gear at all costs. A report by Denis Houillé.
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| O’Neill |
C.W.S.
These three letters seem to appear in any publication with anything remotely to do with surfing in cold water. A new concept or simple marketing gimmick? One thing is for sure, looking around the top 90 surf spots in Europe, it seems like there have never been so many people in the line up whatever the season.
At O’Neill, they are enjoying a recent resurgence for “what they have been doing for over 60 years,” muses European Product Manager Joe Turnbull. Sales have never been so high and “in reality the demand has just kept increasing since we started to make products for cold water in 1952!” he adds. This rising market will have its own area at the next ISPO where brands, designers, athletes and bloggers can share ideas about the new frontiers of surfing.
It even goes beyond just surfing equipment and Tom Elyatt, Osprey Marketing Manager states that there is “a growing number of consumers who find appealing, the values and lifestyle associated with cold water surfing such as adventure, hardship, durability and functionality. ”
Will surfing alone or just with your friends become a luxury? Surely not considering the miles of European coastline still to be explored. Like they say at ION Wetsuits “cold means nothing”. The difficulty in accessing spots and the commitment required are matched only by the technical properties of the winter products.
UNDER CONSTANT DEVELOPMENT
Product innovation often starts with the base material itself. By 2016, neoprene rubber will prove even lighter, stretchier and carry improved thermal properties. The constant improvements to this foam pushes manufacturers to adapt each panel, each thickness in order to guarantee optimal final performance. Once you’ve changed one or more factors in the equation, modifications become essential to ending up with the same result. As Joe Turnbull, O’Neill European Product Manager reminds us “Panel construction, pattern making and fit checking are the dark arts of wetsuit manufacture.”
Before considering the inside of the wetsuit (see SACRED LINERS section), you must first think about the external covering, the neoprene coating in other words. Wind remains a factor that can bring about wide-ranging temperature variations on its own (wind chill). To minimise its effects, a neoprene coating seems indispensable. Furthermore, this is where we can improve the performance of products in the years to come as Paulo Green at ONDA Wetsuits declares: “The great secret will be finding and developing more and better coatings (warmer) that are associated to less thicker rubbers, to allow the maximum performance to surfers”.
In terms of texture, we can see some unique designs (notably on the O’Neill Technobutter and the Quiksilver Shark Skin) that will minimise water absorption: being chequered on the outside and striped on the inside “adds to the depth of colour and gives a premium look when compared to other fluoro materials” explains Joe Turnbull, European Product Manager.
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| C-Skins |
We can but celebrate the fact that biological neoprene has become a reality on our market and especially because the two brands behind its development (Patagonia & Yulex) have decided to put its formula at the disposal of the rest of the industry. “We aren’t keeping the recipe secret!” insists Gabriel Davies, Patagonia. Surfing and eco-design have always been linked and after many years of testing, the first models guaranteed to not impact the planet have made their first appearance on surfshop racks. All we have to do now is wait for production volumes to increase so the prices fall and convince all markets and manufacturers about the benefits of this green rubber.
Air remains the cornerstone of insulation. Inside, the honeycomb structure of the neoprene foam traps a maximum amount of air to warm up each of its cells. But on the outside, the air of a strong wind can become thermal insulation’s worst enemy. Although warmth remains a predominant criterion in 2016’s collections (available September 2015), comfort is also just as crucial.
COMFORT
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| C-Skins |
While you may tend to forget, the first thing that the customer will feel before warmth, durability and the technical features of the product is comfort, particularly when trying it on. At Madness, Benoit Brecq, head of marketing, underlines that a deciding factor when purchasing a wetsuit is “how easy it is to get in and out of it in the changing room.”
Faced with the perseverance of front zips, there is a strong trend towards zipless models with asymmetric cuts that Rip Curl were the first to sell. No more risk of chafing or bruising from zips. No more salt or sand getting stuck in there, just impressive ergonomics and ease of use. Once again, the first attempt will be the decider.
To optimise a wetsuit’s fit and therefore comfort, each year designers are modifying the position and size of the various neoprene panels; by enlarging them, the stretch zones most used for paddling are increased. Not many brands have patterns made for each size and style they sell and so most manufacturers abuse their outsourcing and leave it up to their factories. That’s why it’s a good idea to trust in the neoprene pioneers.
Between the panels, the seams and silicone being used are becoming thinner to improve stretch and the product’s overall look. The magic formula of these seams (urethane/silicone) is reworked season after season for better stretch, durability and reduced weight. At ION, the Sweep cut (designed to eliminate the seam behind the shoulder) is a formidable innovation that has produced outstanding results by increasing reach in the paddling zone explains Carlo Rauen, Neoprene Product Manager.
Numerous “little details” will also be factored in to ergonomics and the general comfort of the product. Starting with the openings at the wrist, ankles and neck. The crucial zones where any rubbing should be eliminated sometimes seem to be neglected but it’s right here that can act to improve ergonomics, minimise water entry and prevent any risk of abrasion or irritation. Additional jointing, different materials, reinforced seaming: all good stuff. The neckline is actually one part that O’Neill has managed to perfect over time by adjusting the height, tapering and the materials used.
“What’s the point in having a wetsuit that fits perfectly if you are cold or if it falls apart after three sessions?” asks Mark Brown from C-skins. Durability is often the price to pay for staying warm, no matter what the wind, water or air temperature. Tests carried out by the British brand in a wind tunnel bear witness to this.
SACRED LINERS
While liners play an essential role in the thermal insulation of wetsuits, we are learning that it often goes far beyond that. Manufacturers are focussing all their attention on them, that’s how significant drying properties, insulation and heat reflection – all compounded by the liner – have become as purchase criteria. Incredibly gentle on the skin, often in attractive colours: this is what the consumer will see and feel first of all. And if they don’t think about this, feel free to turn the product inside out to maximise the effect.
On a technical level, the “fuzzy” texture you often find provides quicker drying when in contact with the skin and reflects and optimises the body’s heat distribution (infrared technology) while minimising heat loss. These liners are most often made from recycled polyester and sometimes complemented by a layer of aluminium like at C-Skins or merino wool at Patagonia. By patenting their respective systems, like at O’Neill with their thermal “Firewall Technobutter 2” liner, brands are protecting themselves and establishing unprecedented standards in terms of lightness, anti water-absorption and warmth without contraction.
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| This image and page top image: Rip Curl |
Year after year, these internal jerseys are becoming more and more versatile so don’t be surprised to see their prevalence increase here and there on the inside of wetsuits. It also must be said that these liners, as beneficial as they are, should be treated with an antiseptic- as is the case at most specialists- to protect the product from bad smells and irritation for the most sensitive skin.
THEMES & COLOURS
Even though explosive new colours are settling in here and there, it’s no surprise that black is still the timeless, benchmark colour of wetsuits. The red, blue and orange liners will brighten up the landscape but only once they are turned inside out…
Rip Curl are identifying three looks as Borja Torres, Rip Curl’s European Wetsuit product manager explains: “This is the 3rd generation of surfers in Europe, meaning that you need to cover three different markets”; a veteran, classic look with gentle colours, some flashy yet discreet details for the 80’s generation and an array of fluoro for the young generation.
At Alder, they say that there is not really a theme as such and that the colours used range from dark steel to bright. As for the aesthetic of Osprey products; futuristic, high-tech aspects are brought forth, with tones going from navy blue to metallic silver against the standard black background. Derevko are concentrating more on organic tones (blends of brown and green) as opposed to fluoro.
Also, the personalisation or customisation of wetsuits is now on the agenda. Here we can note the efforts of designers Sen No Sen, who offer customers a choice in the colour and thickness of each neoprene panel.
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| Rip Curl |
More generally, as is the case on the high street, solid or blank colours are all the rage right now with an often simple, discreet detail as a contrast (stripe, cuff or branding). Quiksilver are also opting for a “low profile” look by offering a bit more eccentricity on certain models. You can see that most brands are coming back to minimalist logos and retracting the over-flashy panels for a more retro look. An elegant, respectable sobriety in the line-up.
Finally, the various neoprene panels must be harmonious with each other to present an elegant outline as opposed to an imbalanced outfit that exaggerates the size of certain parts of the body. We are living in a time where people are really preoccupied with their image and we have realised that technical sporting goods seem, more often that not, to follow the codes and principles of fashion.
PRICE BRACKETS
Kitting yourself out with higher performance products has pretty much become an inescapable cost for regular or serious surfers. Also, the top-of-the-range doesn’t seem to be scaring anyone off and at Alder we can see that “the demand for the most technical products continues to surpass the forecasts year after year.” We can see that over the last three years the level of higher prices has increased in relation to how technical products are. This is basically technological inflation that doesn’t seem to bother hardened consumers as Phil Bridges, designer at TIKI notes, “There is a push for value over hype or price. (…) the buyer is savvy, they understand the product and can see through the bullshit.”
The mid and entry-levels also seem to have found their targets easily. Gul, true cold water specialists, continue to equip surf schools in Scandinavia with their high performance 6mm Viper cagoule model that “strives to push the limits and invite more people to surf in cold water” affirms Mike Pickering. Madness, whose price positioning is one of the most aggressive on the market, is also proving popular with schools and the rental market.
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| O’Neill |
HIGHLIGHTS
LINERS: warm, comfortable, quick drying and bright colours, they will be a selling point in their own right.
COMFORT: comfort and ease of use while paddling and getting in and out of zipless closing is steadily gaining on the frontzip.
COLD WATER SURFING: emphasis on top-of-the-range equipment and associated clothing lines. Strong values attract new participants and open new surfing frontiers.
LOOK: A return to minimalism with discreet branding and details. Fashion codes are followed with solid colours and balanced outlines.
BIOLOGICAL NEOPRENE or YULEX: the greatest innovation in the history of the wetsuit, which the surf industry is preparing to adopt in coming years. No compromise in terms of performance and no impact on the planet.
