Boardshorts SS15 Trend Report

Season after season the product segment of boardshorts is innovating and continually pushing its limits, as much in terms of design as in functionality. Manufacturers’ collections are expanding and segmenting to the joy of the increasing number of surfers who have become as sensitive to the fashion side as they are to performance. Boardshort? Walk Short? Pool Short? It doesn’t matter what you call them, what you use them for or what your target market is, the summer 2015 creations are arriving in force and await only to be incorporated into your orders… By Denis Houillé

A STRONG SECTOR

Boardshort racks are constantly gaining ground space in the shops. With the unquestionable rise of surfing and its exploding population, the supply on offer really should be considerable. This is what Mark Little from Patagonia confirms for us, reckoning that “Surfing is more popular than ever and as a result surfers differentiate themselves more than ever.”

Manufacturers have cottoned on to this and are no longer shying away from investing in advertising dedicated to the rise of boardshorts. Advertising campaigns in the press and clips popping up online between the series of each stage of the World Tour are evidence of this. This category has even become priority number one for manufacturers like Hurley since the technological challenge is so great and the needs of their athletes require the brand’s complete attention.

This is also backed up by Laura Chu, Product Manager of Fox Europe who suggests a “constant evolution as much in terms of style as technical development from one season to the next. You can position this piece of ultra-technical textile halfway between clothing and equipment considering how impressive the applied engineering and design is.”

“Consumers are asking us for a more added-value product that is recognized as superior” says Peter Smith of Hurley Europe. As a result the value of the product continues to increase and at retail the maths is simple. With a margin coefficient almost as high as a T-Shirt, boardshorts can quickly boost turnovers.

With this in mind, in terms of price, we see that brands generally position themselves on three levels: the basic entry level (nylon, elastic at the waist), the hybrid ‘surfable and wearable’ and the top-of-the-range (stretch, poly/cotton).

Segmentation comes almost naturally to each manufacturer’s range, as well as to each different point of sale. It’s up to the individual to define their style between the 20” models designed for performance, the more hybrid 18” or the very trendy 16”.

Just as for trousers, season after season the trend is for shorter and more tailored. From swim shorts to pool shorts, the categories are diversifying. But watch out, cut and comfort go hand in hand. Vans have understood this completely. Since they started out, they have made sure that all their models have different fits and specific materials.

MATERIALS

Although cotton/nylon mixes continue to dominate collections, the traditional composition of the swimming short is still being revisited now and then. Denim, twilled cotton, linen or hemp fibres…the possibilities are numerous, and so are their uses…

Poly/cotton stretch proclaims itself as the must in terms of touch, comfort and output. In addition, faded and other kinds of finish constitute an aspect sought after by each manufacturer: aesthetic fading by Volcom, aquatic nuances by Fox and more acidic tones from Afends.

Oliver Cousins, Globe design manager insists on a new French material called ‘Aqua Tech’ that according to its developers is “a unique pleasure to surf in due to its unrivalled comfort and performance.”

At Brakeburn they have decided to abandon the 100% polyester, turning towards a more comfortable mix of cotton that’s “simple and commercial while remaining functional” specifies their marketing manager Joe Harrison.

The chino/Bermuda look will of course still be honoured and thanks to fitted polyester used by Brunotti for example, the achieved effect is elegant and can be worn “in the daytime, before or after your surf session,” assures Lonneke Mulder, Marketing Manager.

COLOURS

Glancing at the colour palettes used by the designers for spring/summer 2015, you can already feel all the fun of summer. The overall impression is minimalist design and summer colours- bright or subdued.

The motto at Vans is simplicity; they have been applying just that in their shoes for 40 years and are loyal to this in designing their boardshorts as they reveal, “we were really looking to remove, rather than add anything to our shorts.”

At Globe this minimalism is expressed “without flashy or metallic garnish, just a super functional short with a really cool look” as is the case of their Hikari model developed in collaboration with Misfit Surfboards.

Volcom evokes a “purified style with a vintage look” and Protest are also talking about a ‘clean look’ with different faded colour combos. The same goes for Lost where they have added a few more mellow tones to the palette under the name ‘earth and water’.

Meanwhile at Rip Curl, “bringing colour back to the shop aisle was the premier objective in creating this range” says Mael Armellini, Head of Surfwear Products at Rip Curl. It’s a similar story at Reef where the explosive, almost saturated tones reflect the South American character of the brand.

PRINTS

On the prints front, and already highly visible this season (SS/14, right now in shops), 2015 will pursue the trend of a multitude of nautical, geometric and tropical themes. Colour blocking will also be used at Nike, Quiksilver and Fox amongst others. Camo will pop up here and there in its different forms of army or safari but above all the vintage floral print will keep pride of place next summer. Hurley brings a contemporary abstract aspect to it and Billabong are preferring to mix it with geometric lines and motifs. Encouraged by its success last season, the capsule collection Liberty by RVCA returns in force with 4 all-over prints that branch out onto shirts and caps. At Rip Curl, 2 capsule collections are retained: ‘Brash Youth’, which has strong colours and all-over flowers and ‘Surf Craft’ that is based on more natural tones.

You must also create your own print to distinguish yourself. For this, Globe decided to call upon a group of aboriginal designers for the development of a uniquely Australian print. Volcom have taken the ‘Primitive Modern’ direction, “an artistic mixture inspired by authentic African prints combined with modern details and functionality” says Joe Frizelle, Volcom’s boardshort designer.

At Osprey, Hawaiian influences will be reworked to bring a bit of fun and humour to the range. Finally, concerned with not falling into the ‘trap’ which trends of the moment represent, Patagonia are letting their inspiration flow from the mountains and point breaks that surround their HQ in Ventura, California.

VERSATILE

Surf, swim, fish, trek, relax… consumers want to be able to do everything in their boardshorts. The hybrid side will therefore retain its popularity next season. But from now on you’ll have to make an outfit to include your boardshorts. This requires being able to easily match it with a T-Shirt, a shirt and shoes… Far from the beach scene.

By listening to the demands of each client, as much in terms of fashion as performance, you quickly understand that ‘surfable fashion’ will be standard. Protest even dedicated a range to this called ‘surfables’, which plays on two levels: casual look and technical performance. At Reef, this versatile line is called ‘Surfaris’ and declares themselves as your partner of choice, no matter where you are. Lastly at Fox, this trend is illustrated by the ‘cruise control’ collection that symbolises the ultimate alliance between functionality and the retro style: “Cruise for the comfort and ease and control for performance.”

At Patagonia, this ‘social camouflage’ is pursued through a type of shorts “with a sufficiently well-dressed look to allow you to approach any buffet while remaining just as functional in the water” muses Jason McCaffrey. In their creations, Osprey also manage to recreate this spirit of “cross-over between hard-core surfers and those who hang out at the beach or beside the pool.”

Nike goes even further, and their surf models are becoming the benchmarks of the summer. Equally popular amongst skaters for their fit, these walk shorts are pushing comfort and everyday use.

Also, if we want to optimise sales further, this versatility has to be verified by the target market. At Brakeburn, marketing manager Joe Harrison confirms that each of their models can suit “all of their clients, no matter what their age.”

DETAILS

It’s hard to put your finger on what the deciding factor is in purchasing boardshorts. Beyond the cut, comfort and colours, the decision is sometimes made because of one detail. The print of the liner, a little hermetically sealed inside pocket, a k-way type fold, a drawstring whose colour contrasts…all good things for tipping the balance.

Next season, retro elastic at the waist seems to be back in force in ranges from Globe, Vans, Fox and Lost. On their Phantom Elite model, Hurley have managed to perfect their waist band which is now able to move according to your body movements while remaining in place, avoiding any slippage. Reef have also focussed on the inner part of this band of brushed material, making it lighter for maximum comfort using spandex. At BodyGlove, this patented ‘360’ band proclaims strict performance and guarantees to “remain in place no matter how big a wave falls on you” ensures their head of product Jr Jenks. The drawstring itself has become a point not to be neglected: printed, anti-grip and if possible contrasting to the rest of the shorts’ colours.

Directly borrowed from the Bermuda format, western pockets, wallet pockets and belt loops are also becoming common currency, especially in the superstar hybrid models.

Moreover, in water repellence, each manufacturer has its own strategy. The ‘secret sauce’ that BodyGlove apply to their boardshorts allow them not only to dry quickly but to also prevent salt from impregnating and wearing out the fabric’s fibres. Quiksilver for their part are using a patented Scotchguard™ treatment by 3M that has proven unquestionably effective.

Borrowing S-seam technology that’s used on their wetsuits, O’Neill have succeeded in making boardshorts without seams, providing optimal freedom of movement…even the pockets are soldered by ultrasound.

Furthermore, in terms of performance, Oakley have once more placed the bar really high and remained loyal to their motto of “if it’s not good enough for the best athletes in the world, it’s not good enough.” With the Blade and its compression programme, “we are taking surfing towards new horizons by applying science and technology to the sport” declares Jeff Baillargeon, Global Surf Manager.

ECO vs. POWER

With all due respect to the elitist power that controls it, the textiles industry is in the process of change. Clean materials that use little water and even less harmful chemicals in production have appeared on the production line. Hemp is the best example of this as its fibres possess unmatched advantages in terms of construction. A strong response to the catastrophe inflicted for too long on the modern world by the textiles industry.

Recycled polyester has practically become commonplace and now comprises the most part and sometimes the entirety of the fibres used to make boardshorts. Plastic is gradually making way for biodegradable packaging.

Patagonia, for whom reducing its impact on the environment is priority number one, is proud to announce that “for the first time, the entirety of its surf textile range is composed of organic cotton, recycled fibres or Bluesign certified fabrics.”

CONCLUSION

The range of boardshorts on offer has generally widened. The good thing is that the brands, and as a result the retailers, all benefit from segmenting their ranges.

The smaller labels pick their points of sale; the bigger ones segment their collections.

WHAT’S HOT IN 2015

-Shorter, more tailored “pool short”

-Retro elastic at the waist

-Popping summer colours and minimalist designs

-All-rounders and versatility of chino/Bermuda look models

-Inescapable vintage floral prints

-Basic, entry-level swim shorts at €35-50