Men’s Surf Apparel SS15 Trend Report

Rip Curl

Back in the early days of surf culture, buying clothing specifically made for surfing proved challenging. In the late 1950s, only a handful of tailors were offering surf shorts – still called ‘surf trunks’ – including the legendary M. Nii on the island of Oahu, Hawaii. Surfers in the know could also ask the proprietors of surf shops such as Ray’s Cabana in Malibu, California to order their own pair of custom-made shorts, sold ‘under the counter’ and not openly advertised. It was an insider thing, highly individual, and for surfers only.

Fast-forward to the present day and everybody wants to dress like a surfer. And buying surf apparel – or mall-friendly ‘Hollisterations’ of the original culture – has never been easier. But with core surf companies driving a more tailored, individualized and quality-oriented approach, things are coming full circle: Welcome to Surf Wear 2.0, where inspired designs, advanced fabrics and up-to-date silhouettes by brands with a rich boardsports heritage are separating the ones who ride real waves from those riding trends. By Dirk Vogel

DaKine

“In the coming seasons, boardsport customers are coming back to true surf or skate brands. They are once again searching for this lifestyle difference that existed in the ‘90s and before, to differentiate them from others. So the surf apparel will be more focused on its roots and will bring more difference to streetwear,” said Nicolas Perceval, Head Designer for Men’s Apparel at Billabong.

Ultimately, it’s all about standing out from the clones and their mass-marketed clichés of the prototypical ‘surfer look’. For Spring/Summer 2015, endemic surf companies are looking inwards at their own brand DNA. “There are many ways to stand out and it’s not always about being loud, it’s just making sure you stay true to who you are as a label,” said Jacob Byrne, Design Manager at Rhythm Clothing. While Rip Curl’s Maël Armellini, Men’s Surfwear Product Manager is on the same page: “Regarding the size of collection, we downsized it to make sure our designers are now focusing 100% on what Rip Curl stands for and what core surfers need: the most comfortable boardshorts, the best surf jackets and the quality of our products.”

After 35 years in the surf market Dakine are set to enter the Surf Apparel market for SS15 with a collection including men’s boardshorts, junior swimwear, wovens, knits, flannels and fleece. Mike Madlener, president of Dakine Hawaii Surf acknowledges: “The new spring lines build on Dakine’s commitment to quality, performance and innovation, but there is also a strong sense of place, building on our Hawaiian foundation and honouring the spirit of aloha that is so important to the brand.”  Our team worked around the clock to bring this line to market and I think it will resonate with our specialty retailers and end users as relevant and well considered, with a deeper identity and positive messaging”.

Rusty

THE BEACH, NOT THE STREET

Going out are big logos and standardized shorts, tees and hoodies. Coming in is a wave of sun-faded fabrics, delicate knits, artful prints and well-concealed technology under the hood. And for a major reality check, SS15 marks the end of the short-lived love affair between surf apparel and streetwear. It’s been real, but now both have to go their separate ways, and focus on what they do best.

Jan Lindeboom at O’Neill notices: “The main difference between surf apparel and streetwear is the consumer. At O’Neill we love to check the streetwear trends as well and we will apply some of them to our designs, but the main filter is always: Would a surfer wear this? Some streetwear trends are just too far away from our brand!”

While streetwear draws inspiration from urban culture and metropolitan environments, surf apparel is all about roaming free under sun. And it’s not just about the beach, as upstart California brand Iron & Resin demonstrates: “We are inspired by our shared adventures; wandering and rambling under the western sky. Equal parts mountains, deserts, and coastline,” said Jackson Chandler, co-founder of Iron & Resin.

Afends European Brand Manager Alexei Obolensky notes: “Surf apparel and streetwear are more and more aligned. Brands are becoming ‘streetwear brands with surf influences’. Surf is still a slightly dirty word in non-core surf markets such as Paris/London so brands need to be careful in terms of positioning.” While Reef also notice “the line between surf apparel and street wear is becoming more and more blurry.”

GO YOUR OWN WAY

When it comes to stylistics, surf wear has traditionally followed a different trajectory than its urban counterpart. Case in point: Neon colours and sun-kissed accents feel right at home amidst white sands and blue water, but stand out like an eyesore in the hustle and bustle of the city. “The main difference between our surf apparel line and our street wear is the colour story. The surf one is brighter than the streetwear one,” said Mathieu Santoni at Volcom.

Pepe Šetele, head designer at Horsefeathers, is on the same page: “Streetwear is going to be less loud, with a selection of undertones and heather colours, tone-in-tone prints. Surf wear is still strong with flashy colours, motives, and patterns. Seems like there’s still no limit for designers.” Neon is adding pop to shorts by brands such as Brunotti and O’Neill, while Oakley uses splashes of neon as colour-blocking elements on their 1080 windbreaker.

Meanwhile, both surf apparel and streetwear are trending in the same direction in terms of silhouettes and materials, Pepe at Horsefeathers notes: “On the other hand, cuts are quite similar. Shorter and slimmer legs are getting more and more space. Stretch fabrics give more comfort to the slim cuts.”

The highlight of Rusty’s SS15 collection is their ANTIFIT line: “The whole dumpster (or dropped crotch) style of fit is huge at the moment as youth around the world move away from the more traditional fits that their parents are wearing!”

Technical performance and functional fabrics have always been an intrinsic part of surf apparel, especially when keeping in mind that in the early days, the tailored surf trunks of M. Nii and cohorts answered to specific requirements related to riding waves. “The differences to streetwear are mainly on the technical part. Surf has lots of technical features, like stretch materials and laser cut holes and glued seams,” said Joffrey Delfgaauw, Design Manager at Protest.

Volcom

VINTAGE VS. TECH

But make no mistake: The trend towards performance-enhancing technologies does not automatically imply a return to the 1990s era of futuristic, ‘super-tech’ stylistics. For SS15, the ‘technology under the hood’ movement prevalent in footwear is gaining traction in surf apparel. The result is a classic, understated look that’s both heritage and progressive at the same time.

Peter Smith, General Manager at Hurley Europe confirms: “There’s an influence from the vintage days of surf, but it’s been revisited with modern fits and materials. I think the boundaries between surf and skate are blurring as the market explores more liberty of expression.” Standout pieces for SS15 include the JJF and Julian Wilson collaborations, and walkshorts with Nike Dri Fit.

On that note, chino pants are no longer restricted to urban settings, but can actually get wet, including Brunotti’s new hybrid for SS15: “The Calvise boardshort looks like a chino, but is a technical boardshort. So you can wear it in the city and during your ride. The original snap closure with zip fly, belt loops and money pocket gives the short its street looks. The short is water repellent, so the drops will fall off easily,” said Lonneke Mulder, Marketing Manager at Brunotti Europe.

The new vintage-tech hybrid is best exemplified in the new collection from Oakley, a company known for pushing the envelope of technical performance with a constant commitment to research and development. Oakley’s new Factory Pilot collection, “is a new fresh collection specifically targeted towards the young core consumer in surf and street with heritage-inspired silhouettes done in modern ways,” said James Harrison, Oakley EMEA Apparel Brand Manager.

Asked about specific technologies, Jan Lindeboom at O’Neill pointed out: “Most of our shorts have Hyperdry, which makes them dry super quick. It all started with the Hydrofreak, the quickest drying boardshort in the whole surf industry.” For SS15, surf apparel brands are finding ways to conceal quick-dry, stretch, ventilation and wicking technologies without compromising on a timeless, forward-thinking look.

Protest

PRINTS AND GRAPHICS

While Hollister-shopping mall surfers are content with parading a huge seagull logo on their chests, authentic surf companies are steering clear of aggressive, over-sized brand emblems. Large prints are still trending, but these are either refined artworks or photo prints grounded in surf culture. Photos of palm trees, waves and California sunsets feature prominently on T-shirts by heritage brands including Brunotti, Volcom, Iron & Resin and Horsefeathers.

So-called monogram prints, geometric repetitions of the same, small icons across entire garments also feature prominently in SS15 collections. The second hot print trend for next season has been building momentum across footwear and accessories collections for the past year: Floral and Hawaiian prints are having their day in the sun, found in almost all SS15 surf apparel collections.

Meanwhile, the most classic of all nautical patterns is popping up on tees, henleys and knit sweaters by brands including Volcom, O’Neill, Horsefeathers and Iron & Resin – horizontal stripes, also known as ‘surf stripes’ or ‘nautical stripes’. Here’s a bit of trivia: Did you know that white sweaters with thin, horizontal stripes were standard regalia for low-ranking sailors on 17th Century ocean vessels? It’s because hardly any of these men were able to swim, and the classic ‘nautical stripes’ pattern makes it easier to spot a ‘man overboard’ amidst the waves. True story.

THAT TRUSTY, LIVED-IN LOOK

Everyone has that special T-shirt in their life, a favourite item that’s soaked up memories of countless adventures. The new generation of surf tees offer that lived-in, familiar comfort straight off the rack. “Important is the soft touch of the t-shirt, like it’s vintage,” said Lonneke Mulder at Brunotti. At Horsefeathers, all pieces of “the t-shirt collection are washed with the ‘cold-dye’ method, which gives the t-shirts a classy, vintage look.”

Adding to that time-honoured look, colorways are also getting faded… sun-faded that is. With splashes of sun-soaked salt water and lighter gradients, companies such as Volcom and Iron & Resin are adding levels of texture to their colour stories.

Billabong calls it ‘Washed Out Daze’, as Nicolas Perceval explains: “With this story, Billabong is bringing some freshness to the whole collection. Tie-dye is still a strong influence but used this season with sober tone-on-tone colour combos.” Pieces in the new Billabong garage collection are “garment-dyed for a vintage look.”

SURF SHORTS 2.0

While the mall version of surf shorts is still the oversized, below-the-knee boardshort of early 2000s fame, endemic surf brands are driving a more form-fitted silhouette with much shorter leg lengths. At Volcom, Mathieu Santoni puts an emphasis on “short outseam boardies at 17-18 inches in length.” This trend reflects in new collections by Brunotti with nice, strong colour pop and pieces like the Canyon short by Iron & Resin, tailored from – wait for it – corduroy!

And corduroy isn’t the only outlandish material trickling into surf shorts collections. Horsefeathers and Volcom are embracing jean shorts, which might change their negative reputation (for kicks, go and Google “jorts”). Naturally, this new blend of water-friendly denim also features technologies such as stretch and quick-dry properties.  Reef’s boardies have a “lightweight slick elastane fly with a brushed interior waistband”, which provides ultimate comfort when paddling and also out of the water.

Oxbow have some rich, flamboyant patterns and graphics combined with their quick drying water repellent surf short technology on offer for SS15. The French company are taking inspiration from Hawaii and also Southern Europe with their patterns encompassing a mixture of flowers, checkerboards and culminating in the Baroque-esque highlight of the line, the Exubérance collection.

Billabong embraces acid washed denim shorts, and as if that wasn’t shocking enough, Nicolas Perceval announces: “Polos are definitely back in the business, with all-over prints, so next season’s top will be a polo!” That’s right: Formerly at home on the golf course, polo shirts are making a splash across SS15 men’s collections from all major brands.

O’Neill

ACCESSORIES FOR DISCERNING GENTLEMEN

Making waves in the accessories segment for SS15 is a headwear staple pioneered by style savants such as Hunter S. Thompson and pro skater Jason Dill: the Bucket hat! “Seems like I have been seeing lots of the 5-panel-camp hats as well as a resurgence with the bucket hat,” said Jackson Chandler, co-founder of Iron & Resin. Jan at O’Neill also urges retailers to keep an eye out for, “5-panel caps made from taslon nylon and the bucket hat.” James Harrison at Oakley considers it a long-term trend: “5-panels are definitely the hot trend in the market place. We do not see this going away any time soon!”

Joffrey Delfgaauw, Design Manager at Protest is also seeing massive movement in men’s headwear and other accessory items: “The trucker cap is back! Furthermore we see a lot of all-over printed caps, like ours with a full-colour tropical palm print. We also introduce a range of summer beanies. And our flip-flop range has a brand new, one-mould-flip-flop.”

Horsefeathers also re-engineered their sandals, and for SS15 introduce genuine leather belts made in the EU and a leather phone case. Pepe is stoked on, “our super strong collection of hand-made leather belts. These are made by a small workshop close to our headquarters and the pieces are definitely worth checking out.” For the discerning surfer, Iron & Resin offers sleek “leather wallets hand-made in the U.S., as well as a cool corduroy hat.”

Finally, backpacks are the new tote bags, making a return with fresh takes on time-honoured designs in collections by Volcom and Oakley. Oakley EMEA Apparel Brand Manager James Harrison confirms: “We are also seeing a lot more traditional backpack silhouettes that have very loud and aggressive use of colour and print or very outdoor inspired design language, for example our Voyage collection.”

So there you have it: SS15 Men’s Surf Apparel marks a revival of heritage styles built on state-of-the art technologies in an overall package that says, ‘Surfers Only!’ As the coming season separates the real from the fake, the knock-off mall brands will have some serious catching up to do.

MEN’S SS15 SURF APPAREL TRENDS AT A GLANCE

Streetwear gets dumped. Surf apparel ends its love affair with streetwear, announces it’s time to ‘Do me’ and return to its roots.

Vintage feel fabrics. Soft, dye-washed fabrics for that lived-in, ‘old favourite’ feel straight off the rack.

Getting faded. Bleached colour accents add sun-kissed highlights for extra texture and detail on shirts and bottoms.

Not without my hat! Three types of lids are covering surfer’s heads in SS15: “Bucket hats, 5-panel hats and snapbacks with floral prints. But customers are definitely moving onto bucket hats,” said Nicolas at Billabong.

Polos are the new tank tops. Formerly the domain of frat boys and golfers, polo shirts are rolling into surf apparel with a vengeance, and surf-specific prints.

Show some leg. The ‘short shorts’ trend continues with vintage-inspired surf shorts, with inseam lengths around 17–18 inches as the magic number.

Material stories. Next to technical performance fabrics, urban materials such as corduroy and denim are learning to swim in SS15 surf short collections.

Upscale accessories. Next to the ubiquitous headwear, hand-made belts, wallets and phone cases from fine leathers are adding sophistication to the accessories segment. Surfers aren’t beach bums anymore, bro.