Women’s Snowboard Outerwear FW16/17 Trend Report

Nikita

Women’s outerwear is a category beleaguered by high street plagiarism and price competition. It’s hard to sell an expensive technical piece when vertically integrated high street chains are offering a similar-looking thing for pennies on the Euro. But reassuringly, today’s female snowboarders are a growing segment, and more independent and adventurous than ever before. From park to backcountry riders, piste shredding seasonnaires up to girls-only splitboard campers, women continue to push their limits in snowboarding – and large it just as well as the guys on the terrace at après-ski. So let’s figure out how we’re going to make sure next season’s client gets exactly what she’s looking for in our FW16/17 Women’s Outerwear Preview. By Tom Wilson-North.

Burton – Cinder Anorak Jacket

TREND OVERVIEW
The first key trend is the technical one; every brand we spoke to aspires to create the perfect “mountainwear” jacket and pant with a modern and clean look with on-point technicity. The main goal here is comfort – durability and design mixed together with feminine lines and the perfect fit. The silhouettes are extended longer and the femininity comes out in details like metallic zippers, leather patching, colour palettes and washed look fabrics.

Comfort is a big FW16/17 trend too. Burton’s VP of Soft Goods, Andrew Burke told us about their long down jacket which hits at the knee – a direct port from the high street. Templeton back this up – the key piece of their new women’s line due for launch at ISPO is “the baggiest slim fit pant ever, with the best freedom of movement, which will keep you cosy, comfy, fluffy, warm, dry, fun and elegant”, according to Co-Founder Klaus Zenker. DC also reported a major tweak of their women’s outerwear skinfeels and linings to drop resistance and enhance comfort.

Picture – Aroma Jacket

There was an underlying sustainability trend running throughout the conversations we had with brands. The idea is to be more sustainable by having one jacket, which is as functional on the mountain as it is in town. Billabong has added some removable features – principally the waist gaiter – for greater versatility.

As well as sustainability, there is a clear focus towards planet-friendly production and work processes. This links into a colour palette inspired by earth colours and a fabric range selected for their eco credentials. The ethos is one of enjoying the beauty of the mountains and respecting them. When we asked Templeton’s Klaus if he could identify any general theme to next year’s lines, he agreed, saying: “The only hot trend I can see is producing and acting on a earth and human-friendly level.” Volcom epitomise this with their Boarding for Breast Cancer Foundation partnership, which sees an outerwear and accessories capsule collection next year. A portion of the proceeds goes directly to the Foundation.

Picture Organic’s sustainable ethos speaks for itself and has been key to the growth of the brand, and Bleed are also fans of the planet-friendly approach. “Every person customer we can convince to choose sustainable fashion, whether by style or functionality, is a valued customers to us.” very welcome”, they told us.

Next year’s primary tones centre around nature and the environment: a real ‘into the wild’ trend. Colours will continue to run along the earth colour and jewel tones theme, which is neutral, inoffensive and – critically – easy to wear after riding. Prints centre around the military theme, with the still-huge camo, though there are some Hawaiian prints we liked that are a port from the green trend.

Westbeach – Women’s Amery Stretch Pant

KEY NEW PIECES
The main idea is to be eco by using the same outerwear in town and out riding on the hill, then. Cue Zimtsern’s “shreddable streetwear” – particularly their new Mazonka jacket which works as a transition piece for riding as well as for city life. Rip Curl went in a more fashion-forward direction by designing a new crossover parka called the Amity Gum which features a heather stretch fabric as well as Primaloft insulation – they went for “warmth, sexy fit and max comfort” in this piece, explained their PLM.

On the other hand, Westbeach is playing with new 20k/20k performance stretch soft lightweight fabrics which they claim make their new Amery pant as comfy as wearing yoga pants – whilst we can’t confirm that yet, what is sure is that the pant looks primo, with a huge range of motion.

Don’t forget slightly more bling jackets, which feature heavily next year. Billabong’s new Rich Dip jacket features a luxurious design highlighted by metallic copper prints and details. The 15K/15K mechanical stretch twill combined with Primaloft Eco insulation adds comfort on top of the unique design. Rojo’s Always Lux jacket is another option – it’s got textured fabric in a puffer style, finished off with leather trims. You’ll see it in traditional high-class colours of black, white and alloy grey.

Conversely, masters of technical wizardry Norrona add some military styling to their new Tamok dri2 Jacket, using soft organic cotton and cordura mixed face fabric over a waterproof and breathable membrane. Also on the military theme is the Yoko jacket from L1, which has vintage military roots and is made for someone in need of a serious snowboard jacket that still looks feminine and stylish.

Finally, the choice piece from Bonfire is called the Safari Jacket, which has a tailored fit, extra insulation layer and tech increase to 20K/15K. Marketing Manager Vicki Vasil agrees – “It’s our female riders’ go-to jacket”.

NEW FITS
Next winter general snowboard fits will be much more of an urban-derived look. It’s all about being contemporary, nonchalant and comfortable. The key catwalk takeaway with relevance is the long down-the-knee tailed or fishtailed jacket. There’s also a khaki tailed feminine parka with fake-fur trim doing the rounds. Holden fits perfectly into this concept with their new longer fitting fishtail jacket loaded with rock ‘n’ roll style and some on-point colours, typical for this fashion-forward brand.

Airblaster – Slim Curvy Pant

There is a widespread gravitation towards this longer style, which is more feminine and trendy than the square jacket of years past. It seems that the development teams are profiling a girl riding hard during the day with her long jacket and slim-fit trousers, then wearing the same jacket during the evening with a hat, skinny jeans and cool shoes. This isn’t too far wrong – but for this to work girls want to look like they bought their jacket at Zadig & Voltaire without compromising on the solid performance and reliable technical features of classic snowboard outerwear.

There is square pocketing and slightly longer cut jackets over at Colour Wear, and Airblaster’s new Slim Curve Stretch pants are a great new option for ladies with curves. Brand Manager Jesse Grandkoski explains “we realized that our Slim Fit (My Brother’s Pant) is an amazing and well loved fit for women with slim to medium builds, but doesn’t accommodate ladies blessed with junk in the trunk – whom it should be noted that we love as much as anyone!” You’ll also see tweaks to the bigger sizes of Rojo’s pants to accommodate curvier figures.

L1 – Juno Jacket.

Three major retools to report: Nikita have an all new style this year with pieces that carry high end streetwear vibes – their Blonde Roast Chicken jacket is dope, with a quilted hood and sleeves and drawstring waist. Nitro have changed their pant programme with fit updates for overall slimmer and more flattering silhouettes. Our favourite was their Tate Pant. Over at Billabong, Outerwear PM Alexandre Berthonneau told us that all their fits have been “re-engineered for next year to offer more modern silhouettes, tailored to be worn in the city and not just on the mountain.”

In general, cuts are longer and slimmer for more feminine silhouettes. Slim overalls like we used to see in the 70’s have inspired bib pants; DC’s Collective Bib is a 15k tailored fit piece, which comes in a washed soft oxford, with detailing true of a denim overall. Airblaster are good on bibs next year too, and there’s a flattering overall from L1, which is worth a look. You’ll also see some cool fashion inspired fits from Roxy and Brunotti, particularly their dropped shoulder look, which sees the shoulder line slightly less fitted than in previous collections. Lastly, Volcom’s new Tapered Drop Rise Pant has a fashion-forward fit featuring a long, dropped rise and narrow hem.

Roxy Essence Jacket

TECHNICAL INNOVATIONS
It’s good to know that female snowboarders are no longer short changed when it comes to feature packages. Roxy are introducing more technical details than ever before, whilst Homeschool provide female riders with exactly the same features without going too girly on the aesthetic. “We made truly authentic snowboard products designed specifically for the demanding sporty woman. We didn’t take the ‘shrink it and pink it’ approach”, says their designer Erika. Brands seem aware that when in the market for a technical piece, girls aren’t prepared to compromise on functionality. Dakine agree; “Our FW16/17 line is for women who ride hard and don’t want to settle for a downgraded version of a men’s technical jacket. We’ve thrown that theory out the window and built an awesome women’s line based on the girl who blazes trail, drops in first and always shows up in the liftline on a powder day,” says their lead women’s designer Brittany Crook.

COLOUR TRENDS
As referenced above, colours are reflective of the overall eco/sustainable trend, being inspired by nature, the elements – water, trees, ice and marble – and, of course, the mountains.

Colours that are out front are olive green, lagoon blue and heather grey. These reflect the palettes we have seen recently on catwalks in ready to wear fashion weeks, and will remain important in the year to come. White is also making a comeback as well as pink, orange and blue, with gold also making a significant appearance at Roxy. Overall, though, khaki and olive green will be the colour of FW16/17; this is a direct port from some à-la-mode streetwear brands like Balmain, whose last collection had a strong army theme.

Rojo – Helsinki Jacket

Nitro and Bonfire’s colours are inspired by jewel colours like dusty pink, dusty purple, burgundy and emerald. There will also be rich autumnal tones with a mix of washed back muted colours at Urban Beach and Animal are going with “winterberries and the natural colours that surround us; deep purples, inky navies and khaki with fresh accents of bright mint,” states Leon Young, their Technical Outerwear & Lifestyle Designer. It seems the bright colour blocking that has been popular for a few years is done; now colours are much closer to the streetwear tones you’ll see people wearing in city centres.

PRINTS
On top of having earthy colours there are – as usual in snowboarding – a lot of all-over prints, particularly camo. We particularly liked Zimtsern’s, which is principally in green but also available in a dusty pink or blue shade. Bonfire go for a darker Floral Camo version and DC use a Duck camo that’s particularly easy on the eye. Animal introduce a “hand-drawn blanket stripe that features as the AOP this season,” confirms Leon.

The yoga industry is undeniably a huge movement right now, and yoga leggings have inspired prints: Picture have an overprint style which mashes different types of prints together in the same way as hot yoga leggings do right now. There are plenty of tropicals out there too, notably Hawaiian prints, which we saw at Roxy and Homeschool – the leaves and dusty pink flowers gel well with next year’s colour palette.

Dakine Beretta Jacket

There’s acid wash and tie-dye from L1, and an urban jungle print from Light. Horsefeathers have washed-effect fabric dots and a carousel full of colour print and leather look fabrics. Retro patterns are also making a gentle return – but thankfully not to the extent we saw back in the 1980s and 1990s. It’s a little more retro, grown-up old-school – think back in the day industry logos and outline chest prints.

CONCLUSION
It’s clear that female riders are becoming more savvy and are demanding fashionable and modern cuts; garish colours and technicolour clown barf patterns are things of the past. Looking loud for a week on the slopes before ashamedly donating the vile item to a charity shop a few years later is definitely ‘out’. It’s refreshing; we’re dealing with much more natural tones, more muted colours, universally wearable styles and a fit that is so sorted that girls will want to wear their new jacket for winters to come.

The general inspiration behind FW16/17 is to upgrade established ranges by optimising style, functionality and cut. We are back to the basics with the main focus on performance and usability. The main objective for many brands is to create two jackets in one; snow jacket and street winter jacket. We applaud this trend; customers are invited to spend a little more and spend once; by choosing well they can keep their piece for a long time, just like in the good old days. And if this modest production keeps winters cold and mountains alive a little bit longer, so much the better for us all.