Women’s Streetwear FW16/17 Trend Report

Rhythm

No matter the land, the age or the decade, women will always need something to wear. And by “something” we obviously mean a lot, especially in terms of style, variety and choice. So next Fall/Winter season shall be an especially splendid one going by all the new trends and silhouettes on display for next winter. Our woman on the ground Anna Langer investigates.

Overall, Women’s Streetwear continues its sporty-feminine direction, taking inspiration from all recent decades, from 70s (Volcom), to 80s (Colour Wear), although the 90s are clearly dominant with their “pop culture” influence (Vans), “grunge and hip hop” (Zimtstern), as well as plaids (from Volcom, Vans and Nikita).

Texture plays an important role for Colour Wear, Bleed and Burton, who aim to “blend lifestyle and action” as Andrew Burke, Vice President of Softgoods states.

NATURE LOVER
Finding the right work-life-balance is ubiquitous for modern women all over the world and obviously plays into apparel that is designed to not only facilitate but also enhance this search. Visually just as much as functionally. Hence there is just as much urban inspiration, as natural. “We’ve been inspired by mountain-focused action sports as well as by spending the day in the city among friends,” explains Zimtstern Senior Designer Marianne Schoch. Bleed’s collection was “inspired by the deep and wide forests, which surrounds us,” says CEO and designer Michael Spitzbarth, as well as “allusions to road- and camping trips, little escape from everyday life.”

Naturally, floral prints are a great fit for these themes, which can be found in the ranges from Volcom, Vans, and Rhythm. Ragwear take their inspiration from nature as well, with “prints inspired by landscape, forest and life in the woods,” Production Assistant Julia Schmökel tells us. Nikita feature an “illustrated print of the coffee tree,” in line with the overall theme of their collection, “something that most women globally have a relationship with – coffee!” thinks US Marketing Manager Vicki Vasil.

CITY GAL
Urban vibes make up the other end of the elusive balance, with photos and “collage prints from the archives” at Burton, “Swedish artisan and handicraft heritage” from Colour Wear, Tokyo’s “megawatt heart” in Roxy’s collection as well as “Moroccan tile inspired patterns” from Rhythm, tribal patterns from Ragwear, and an “ethereal, watercolour print in pinks and browns that is also featured in our snowboard outerwear collection,” from Nikita.

Stripes never go out of style and can be found at Roxy and Rhythm, who feature “a jersey yarn dye stripe in retro colour combos including natural, coco and indigo. Also on offer is a woven yarn dye stripe in natural and chambray,” states Brand Manager for Girls, Daniella Ciano.

In keeping with the 90s revival, colour blocking has also become fashionable again, as Roxy and Nikita show. Especially in combination with the aforementioned icon of the grunge era, plaid, that sees “fresh” interpretations “for an updated look,” according to Nikita’s Vicki. Vans use “classic heritage plaids and military hues” as a “perfect foundation to layer with feminine patterns and colour pops,” says Amelie Robert, Merchandising Manager for Vans Women’s and Kids.

Colour Wear channel their “sportswear legacy from the 80’s” says Johan Ullbro, Co-Founder / Design & Production Manager, while Volcom have a “70s throwback theme” woven throughout their collection, paying “tribute to the era with billowy peasant dresses and blouses, retro surf and desert t-shirt graphics, feminine high-necks and touches of lace and ruffles.”

Vans

LONG, SHORT, WIDE, SLIM
Zimtstern also wait on the “the more sophisticated” customers with “high waisted and cropped pants with slim fitted legs, as well as peg trousers and a pair of culottes” says Marianne, and jumpsuits/rompers are a favourite silhouette for Volcom and Roxy as well. Marie Lauga, Head of Global Design at Roxy even mentions them as THE key piece for 16/17: “In terms of silhouettes for this season, I’m loving jumpsuits – short and long, sleeveless and long sleeve. These pieces are just so easy to wear – from a Sunday morning espresso to a Friday night out.”

They also work great for layering, so much so that almost all brands continue to make it a focus; “the whole layering-theme is still alive,” confirms Marianne from Zimtstern and Colour Wear’s Johan agrees: “We are mixing volumes with slim silhouettes to create a diverse look.” Rhythm add detail to their “simple, relaxed, easy, comfortable to wear silhouettes and oversize shapes” and Roxy finish off “breezy, feather-light fabrication and fits” with embroidered detailing.

Vans reinvent timeless silhouettes “with novel fabrications and unexpected details,” says Amelie, bringing a “fun and flirtatious approach to classic tomboy style,” mixing “tomboy inspired classics and delicate feminine shapes: the perfect complement to our footwear icons.”

“Loose- and long-fitted tops with a boyish appearance” are also part of the Zimtstern collection, and the legendary flannel shirt is gearing up for a major appearance next winter as well. “The Flannel shirt is a staple in any girl’s closet now, whether she is wearing it alone, as a jacket, or tied around her waist,” explains Vans’ Amelie and Burton’s Andrew adds, that flannel shirts are “warm and functional at the same time”. Vans take it even further, “lengthening the silhouette to make the perfect winter dress.” Volcom are big on dresses next year too, long-sleeved of course. Megan LeBrasseur, Senior Designer Volcom mentions “shift dresses with deep scooped backs in printed woven and crochet patterned knit, long sleeved tee dresses in yarn dyed stripes” and “kimono shaped sweaters” as “prominent silhouettes.”

If we had to pick just one trend here, it would have to be the bomber jacket fit that all brands sport in their collection somewhere. “Wider bombers, longer bombers” at Burton, “bomber jackets with fur details” from Volcom, “classic bomber inspired rider jackets” from Colour Wear and coach jackets from Vans, borrowed from the men’s collection and made “shorter and ‘shrunker’. It is now a super cute item, perfect to complement the street edge to our tomboy look.”

COLOR ME BADD
Colour pallets have a nostalgic 90s tint as well next year, with “rich jewel tones” that are “reminiscent of the 90s” (Nikita), next to toned down (Colour Wear), earthy (Burton) colours and “roses and reds and greens” pulled from the coffee and cherry trees at Nikita. Volcom mix “neutral black and tan with bright red yarns and a pale pink plaid with muted grey and white plaids,” and Ragwear combine “pastel and earthy tones,” while Colour Wear bring “memories from the 80’s” back with “rich and happy brights and pastels”.

Toning it down a bit, Bleed mix blue and aubergine with “shades of grey” and Rhythm play with “shades of grey marble, natural, chambray, navy, coco, shell, rose and plum.” Black and white “has remained indispensable” for Zimtstern and Roxy’s Marie names “optic black and white” as “visual stimulus for this collection.”

Nikita

TEXTURED FABRICS
With modern technology enabling textile innovations on a regular basis, a garment’s look and function are no longer the single most important factors, ‘feel’ has also become key. And since we all know that there is simply nothing on this earth that beats your favourite ancient t-shirt/sweater/jeans, “timeworn” and “lived in textures” (Vans) are especially sought after. Colour Wear introduce a new cotton/polyester blend that “will age beautifully and get nice patina after use,” and Vans swear by their “basics elevated with slub fleece and fuzzy French terry that only get better with age.”

Ragwear add “some new mélanges fabrics such as space dye melange, as the customers usually perceive them very well,” thinks Production Assistant Julia Schmökel. Volcom feature “dainty Viscose twill” next to a “new patterned crochet which we’ve engineered linear fringe to run horizontally throughout the pattern,” as Megan explains, and Roxy add “crepe viscose and twill” to their signature pieces.

Vans also introduce “all–weather outerwear for women, where style meets function,” ensuring “maximum protection from wind, rain and snow” with a “1K durable water-repellent coating” on each piece. Rooted in the sports of this season, Burton also have an emphasis on translating function to stylish garments to ensure their girls can look feminine and not overtly technical.

Technical yet organic is the main motivation behind Bleed, who “invented a huge diversity of structured materials, especially for knitted and sweater styles”, setting out a “totally new course for organic and sustainable structured fabrics.” These materials include cork, TENCEL®, a special mix of linen and organic cotton, as well as “animal free down-jackets” made up of PRIMALOFT®Eco, “a filling that consists of recyclable and hollow polyester fibres” explains Michael. For the second time, Ragwear offer a special organic collection as well, “using organic materials such as organic cotton, recycled polyester or bamboo viscose.”

Vans