Women’s Surf Apparel SS17 Trend Report

Of course you could wear anything on your way to the beach and back, and most of your regular clothing would work in wrapping you up after your surf session. Yet women’s fashion has never been about what you can or can’t do, and is more about what women want. So here’s our guide to Women’s Surf Apparel in Spring/Summer 2017. By Anna Langer.

Dressing for the beach should in theory be quite simple, yet we all know that simple is not exactly what women are about. At least not in general. Complex creatures that they are, they like to play, seduce, explore, relax and a hundred things more – of course always in the right outfit. Which is neither problem nor a task, but one of the joys of life to them, hence the overall undercurrent of the women’s surf apparel category next year is one of “vibrancy, freedom and positivity,” (Protest) and “optimism, fresh colours” and strong silhouettes (Billabong).

THEMES
Despite this complexity, there are some themes that show prevalent. First and foremost a retro-inspired boho-beach romance, a “seamless transition of sunny day costal life to dive bars in the 60s and 70s,” as Volcom’s Head of Design for Women’s, Kelly Summer, states. Billabong go for “romantic” with a “full celebration of some 70s boho style. It’s feminine,” says

Isabelle Weppe, Billabong Women’s Design Manager for Europe. Roxy feature a “70s nostalgic spirit capsule,” explains Marie Lauga, Roxy’s Global Head of Design. Rip Curl also follow inspiration from the 70s: “We were looking at the rainbow original stripe, old pictures of tees and boardshorts,” according to Valérie Wieser, Head of Design for Girls. And Brunotti have “graphic retro California-inspired” laser cut details; “curvy, wavy lines and colour blocking creates a tropical retro look,” says Joffrey Delfgaauw, Head of Design/ Concept Design.

“Bohemian hippie mixed with surf shack,” is the theme for Honey, the female offer from Ocean & Earth, showcasing retro-trends for their surf apparel, resulting in omnipresent beach-vibes. Urban Beach take a trip to Hawaii with their Aloha Kai theme: “Embracing vintage surf & Hula flower girls our colourful Bohemian hibiscus florals & bold oversized palm prints reflect the true sense of an age old Hawaiian saying,” says Clothing Designer, Emma Watkiss. Rip Curl are going in a similar direction, yet on the other side of the world; Ibiza and the “hippy beach life from the 70s, wearing all white crêpe viscose shirts.” Next to this vibrant, colourful approach both brands also feature the other, bleached out side of island life in their respective collections. The Urban Beach line takes inspiration from under-the-sea botanicals and uses “the Ocean’s natural beach life to create a range of printed seashells & corals washed ashore.” Rip Curl also feature less saturated, washed out colours and all kinds of washes like pigment dye, salty wash, cold dyed, and tie dye for a “used effect” and a “softer beach look in their Kiss the Sky theme.

Rip Curl

Volcom on the other hand are taking their girl from the beach to city with a “collision of retro surf throwback and vibrant city living”. Rhythm feature “garments that would transition you from the beach to your next summer adventure. We focused on functionality and comfort with some fashion twists.” Billabong also work with a “playful collision of modern, minimal beach vibes” and Nikita were inspired by the “industrial harbour in Iceland, so the colours reflect both the industry and the element.”

SILHOUETTES
When it comes to fits and silhouettes, it’s all about “breaking the code” according to Roxy’s Marie. “Customers are always looking for more feminine and detailed products but still casual and easy to wear. The market is about using the sport codes in a feminine way. That’s why, we do not hesitate to make silhouettes with a fleece short mixed with a cute woven top with lace insert or a woven dress mixed with running sneakers!” Rip Curl mix crop tops with high waisted long skirts and also Urban Beach report “more variety than before with differing cuts across the t-shirt range with some styles built for comfort & movement.”

True to their roots, Volcom take inspiration from streetwear and tomboy aesthetics which are “elevated when mixed with feminine fashion fits that keep us fresh and relevant.” Nikita update their offering with “slimmer silhouettes to complement our signature asymmetrical and oversized lines,” explains Brand Director Stephanie ter Hürne. Chiemsee also blend classic hippie looks with urban athleticism, while at Honey, “relaxed fits from easy-to-wear hooded ponchos/tanks/tees,” are mixed with “70s bombshell mini cheeky high waisted shorts and boho crop tops,” states Tammy Hobson, Ladies Designer at Ocean & Earth.

Rhythm play with lace-up fronts, wraps and ties, “fashion shapes that can be applied to surf pieces too. We chose these fits as they are adjustable so they fit everyone and are also comfy, which is what you want when your going to the beach,” while Brunotti focus on femininity: “mostly loose, wavy and boho.”

This includes a lot of maxi dresses from Brunotti, Chiemsee, Rip Curl and Billabong with back details or all-over prints. Roxy feature a Mexican-inspired printed dress, Volcom have a shift dress and Brunotti play with “sexy low backs in tops and dresses.”

Hippy shirts “with butterfly sleeve in light viscose woven,” can be found at Rip Curl, Chiemsee have a light tunic with feminine ethnic-embroidery and fringe tops, similar to Brunotti’s Kimono tunics. On the more sporty side we find slimmer line hoodies and sweatshirts with updated features and details from Urban Beach, vintage ringer tees and fleece vintage logos prints from Rip Curl, ringer tees with bold graphics for the tomboy girl from Volcom and “hooded poncho after surfwear, high neck surf crops, cropped fashion tops, relaxed fit tanks and tees,” from Honey.

For bottoms, beach girls get to choose between light beach walk shorts and beach pants from Billabong, wavy beach shorts from Brunotti, new beach pants with wide bottoms from Rip Curl and an “80s jogger short throwback in one of our summer weight fabrics; a super light and soft denim-look Lyocell that comes in silver or black,” from Nikita. High waist shorts are still on trend for the more fashionable, in a “fun scalloped knit with vintage-inspired graphics,” from Roxy and 70s style from Honey. And Urban Beach also“offer some new cuts in shorts and boardies giving our customers more choice and comfort than ever before.”

One-pieces on the other hand seem to have passed their peak after their hype in recent years, with only Billabong mentioning a “babe worthy bodysuit,” and Rip Curl a “chambray jumpsuit.”

MATERIALS
“Soft chambrays uplifted with embroidery,” can also be found in Volcom’s collection, with embroidery playing a big role for Rip Curl, Brunotti and Chiemsee too. Especially paired with soft flowing fabrics, like lightweight, soft jerseys (Rhythm) and viscose (Rhythm, Honey & Nikita) that often features prints as well.

Woven fabrics are important too and performing well according to Roxy, again especially in a light weight. Urban Beach feature “cut ‘n’ sew slubby knits”, Rip Curl “jacquard woven”, Roxy add “lace or crochet inserts”, Brunotti pair lace, crochet and tassels with woven viscose.

Billabong have “light wovens like the rayon or even crinkle rayon”, Honey “crinkle viscose wovens” and Nikita introduce a “luxurious rayon from bamboo/cotton blend”

Besides that, cotton and linen are standard summer materials at Urban Beach, Rhythm have lightweight cottons and cotton linen blends that are “comfy and breathable on a hot summer’s day,” next to “fashion-forward cotton lace.” Honey use soft cotton/modal jersey blends, cotton terry and cotton crochets, Nikita apply cotton mesh for layering effects and a knotted net look while Rip Curl uses cotton gaze. Other highlights include special washes and other treatments to create “interesting textures within a range of natural based fabrics that have been specially treated in different ways to create varied textured effects & special finishes,” as Emma from Urban Beach explains.

Rhythm

COLOURS & PRINTS
All the washes and treatments result in more muted, faded colours that have a bleached out or burnt feel, like Billabong’s vintage Coral Shine, Pale Gold and Burnt Orange from Roxy, Burnt Peach from Rip Curl, watery Blue-Greens, Corals, Rust-like Clay, and Soft White from Nikita, Mint Green and Turquoise from Brunotti and Mint Seafoam from Honey. “Colours are left slightly muted to provide a hazy sun bleached aesthetic using Mushroom and Spricot Blush to frame the vibrant hues of Pistol Punch, Blue Drift and Blue Bird,” explains Kelly from Volcom.

Blue is “the key for this summer” according to Rip Curl, and Chiemsee agree that “blue is the new black,” with Indigo injecting a proper breeze of ocean into our lives. Brunotti mix blue denim details with shades of grey and black and Honey love “deep ocean inkiy blues,” as well.

Other brightly colour highlights include Hibiscus Red at Roxy and Chiemsee, the “Pantones colour of the year, Rose Quarts” from Rhythm, Lemon from Honey and “Dark Purple, Grey Green and Dark Blue,” from Brunotti.

Prints reflect colours and themes, with lots of florals from Rip Curl, Roxy, Brunotti, Billabong, Protest, and Urban Beach, next to tropical patterns from Protest, Volcom, Billabong, Brunotti and Chiemsee. Sea life inspired Nikita, Protest and Urban Beach but we can also find watercolours, tie-dyes (Roxy, Honey, Billabong & Chiemsee), as well as animal prints (Volcom, Brunotti & Honey). For most brands, patterns tie with swimwear and accessory collections, allowing for matching merchandise that makes it easy to showcase the stories in the shops.